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However and those expeditions that were lifted klassiche-skim by a way, as

The rule too entered in history of conquest of Chomolungma any the Variation, pri-being brought by something new. So, say, in 1975 from top

The Himalaya panorama was surveyed for the first time by the woman - Japanese Junko Tabej. In

Further, by the way, here there were three more: it Fantog, the Polish climber

Vanda Rutkevich and Hannalora Shmatts from Germany, unfortunately, lost at descent.

(Then Rej Zhanet was lost also - has frozen in a cave on some honeycombs of metres above.)

In the spring of 1978 the Austrians have set up a record on number lifted on

Top of climbers - nine persons (four ascensions). But autumn of the same Year the ex-German group has blocked this record - on top were lifted 16

Soon the world was flown by sensation: Rejngold Messner from Italy and Peter

- from Germany have reached tops without oxygen!

In the end of this short review I wish to surprise the reader with the following

The fact.

In I960 to year Rejngold Messner was alone lifted on top of the Everest.

But it not all. First, it has made it during the monsoonal period, when

Ascensions in general are considered as the impossible! Secondly, it was lifted partially

New route! Thirdly, has overcome this terrible height without oxygen! Fourthly, moved in the Alpine style and from base camp, Possessed on a mark 6500, to the peak - 8848 metres - went all Three days!

Now, when work on the book is finished, before departure of the Soviet Expedition to the Himalayas still has some months. I will not begin to tyre The reader well-known to it from the press details of preparation for it To event. I will remind only that the group will include twelve best

Sportsmen of the country; that, except them, here there will be doctors, cameramen,

Representatives of the press; that already now in Katmandu negotiations on hiring are carried on

Porters for transportation of the forwarding consignment in base camp; that The Soviet climbers will go new, nobody passed, it a route - On a buttress of a southwest wall where will meet on the way the abrupt

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