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Has begun with that we have arrived in Przhevalsk with delay for two days -
The last have arrived on July, 28th. Anybody from us did not suspect that can be
In general any delay, except for that are connected with the termination
Season or limitation of holiday time. But we were late... On
The helicopter. Last has studied two days (25th and 26th) and has decreased on the
To affairs. Without it by helicopter on an ascension glacier here do not practise.
Expeditions hope for it and with this account take with itself the consignment.
And what such the consignment? It is defined by modern principles of a technique and
Lifting tactics - on what present climbers are brought up. To me
Told that in due course V.M.Abalakov fed groups grain
Balls. Possibly, and present climbers could be lifted on the such
"Fuel". For this purpose it is necessary, that in a head at them was corresponding
Psychological installation: "In another way cannot be, you go on an ascension,
Means, expect only for grain balls ". But that's just the point that
Installation other. And here now unexpectedly it needs to be broken. And such, as
It is told, not any head will sustain.
But business not only in the consignment. To a place of base camp, whence begins
The ascension, conducts a glacier Southern Inylchek who lasts on sixty
Kilometres! It it is necessary to pass all! With heavy backpacks!
At once all has departed ours so well thought over schedule. Has appeared
Serious doubt - whether we will be in time? It is necessary to pass a glacier, after it at least two
With the subsequent rest necessary for regenerative effect. Too days
Five. On the basic ascension remains no more than two weeks... We have communicated
With the Pamir centre, tried to cadge the helicopter, but it is ineffectual - there
It too is not present.
it has collected group and has asked each to state the opinion - as
He intends to decide alternative: to go a glacier or to return home?
It has appeared that for its majority simply does not exist. One is comprehensible only
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